Glass Mosaics are mosaics which use real glass, instead of the standard ceramic tiles or china fragments often found in more traditional mosaic works. Mosaic artists love the variety of glass colors, the affordability of glass and even the versatility of glass. If you ever visit a stained glass store, you’ll find a rainbow of color choices, textures, and designs – and usually there’s a scrap box where you can get some already broken peices for a steal. When thinking about using glass for your mosaic, it’s important to remember that most glass is somewhat transparent, so if you are going to put a piece of mostly clear glass onto an object, and the adhesive or the underlying base isn’t something you want the viewer to see through the transparent glass – then you either need to alter the base, or choose a glass that is opaque. If you choose to paint clear glass to make it opaque, just be sure to attached the painted side to your object, and leave the unscratchable clear side exposed. In other cases – you want the see-through affect. If you have, say painted the object underneath a bright blue, and then apply clear or mostly clear light colored glass pieces on top using an adhesive that dries clear, then you can create an visually striking look, with some depth, as the eye travels through the glass to the surface below.

Glass on glass is another great idea. For example, you could buy a 2×2′ pain of clear glass and have it cut into 1×2′ rectangles. Then you could use an adhesive that works with glass on glass and dries clear and put a design made of different colored but mostly transparent glass pieces on one side, drill a small hole near the top, and then hang them as sun catchers in your window. Because the light will go through your window glass, the rectangle glass and the glued on colored glass design, imagine how beautiful the reflection will be when it catches the sun light. Another super easy glass on glass project involes any old juice glass you might have in your cabinet and pick up for .50 cents at a garage sale. Again, using silicon glue, you can apply transparent pieces to the outside of the glass, then grout with a dark color. Then put a candle inside and the candle light will shine through the transparent glass parts, but not through the opaque grouted portions, casting delightful plays of light and shadow in your room. Or you can paint your glass or buy opaque glass that doesn’t let light through, and then you can use these pieces as you would other opaque materials. Mirror glass comes in many colors and has an amazing ability to create some magic in your mosaic design. Some mosaic objects are made entirely of broken mirror and when located near water or in sunlight have a breath taking impact. Oddly enough, one common mosaic material known as vitreous ‘glass’ tiles, which you may be familiar with if you’ve ever been to the mosaic section of an arts and crafts store, really isn’t a material used in glass mosaics. Instead, we picture real glass, such as window glass, broken bottles, pieces of mirrored glass, grandma’s depression glass punch bowl, and especially the whole stable of stained glass as the primary tessarae for a glass mosaic. If you have an old, broken mirror, instead of throwing it away, it may be a good idea to consider making a unique glass mosaic out of it instead. Just be sure to be careful when handling broken glass, and have enough material, or at least of pretty good idea of the size of your project.

It is always a good idea, when making a glass mosaic, or any kind of mosaic for that matter, to draw out your idea before you start your project, this way you will know how much glass, or material will be needed before you start your project. Also, you should have a pretty good concept of how glass breaks before you start. Visit your stained glass store and invest in a quality glass cutter. Breaking glass without first scoring a line to show where the break should occur, will greatly frustate you. One of the great things about using glass is the cutting versatility. It’s a good idea to get some instructions and a little practice while you are in the store, and then practice, practice, practice your cuts on scrap pieces of glass – before you try your skills on the expensive pieces.

Just remember a few safety tips when cutting glass. Always wear safety glasses. Always work in an area where animals and children aren’t likely to walk and pick up tiny shards. Always be careful when picking up your glass pieces. Wear long sleeves to protect your arms from pieces of glass. Clean up your workspace carefully and frequently, and avoid eating or drinking in your workspace (glass doesn’t do a body good!)

Direct Method

The first method is the direct method. The direct method involves directly placing the individual pieces of tile, called tesserae, directly onto the surface where your mosaic will be. This method is nice when doing small projects such as flower pots, or for surfaces having a three-dimensional look, such as walls. You will have a dimensional look if your pieces of tesserae are not all the same thickness.

Another nice thing about this method is that you see your mosaic take life, and as it takes life you can make little adjustments. However this method is not suited for large projects and for mosaics needing an even surface such as a floor mosaic.

Indirect Method

The next possible method you can use is the indirect method. This method involves gluing your tesserae face down on a paper backing. Once it is completed you can then transfer the mosaic sheets into your mortar where it will permanently reside. Once the mortar has dried you then wash away the paper to reveal your art work.

This method is used for large projects because it allows you to work away from the site and gives you more time. You can also divide your mosaic into smaller sheets of one or two square feet. This method will also give your mosaic an even surface since it is the face of your tesserae that is glued to the paper.

The only disadvantage of this method is that you do not see your mosaic come to life since you are gluing all your pieces face down onto an opaque paper. Your mosaic will become visible only when you wash away the paper.

Double Direct Method

The double direct method is a modern version of the direct method. It is sort of a combination of the indirect and direct methods. This method involves gluing your individual pieces of tile onto a fiberglass mesh.

You can use this method for large projects, and it is a very good method when you are making mosaic borders. You also have the leisure of working where you want, like you would with the indirect method, and seeing your mosaic evolve as you are adding pieces, like you would with the direct method.

This is the method I prefer, I really cannot see any big disadvantage using this method, it is a bit longer to create your mosaic but you can really see your mosaic come to life and make little adjustments along the way.

So the method you decide to use to make your mosaic might depend on your project but you have the final word, use the method you think will work for you. As a beginner I recommend you make small projects using the direct method. As you become experienced and want to make larger mosaics go towards the double direct method. Once you are at ease with this try your hand at the indirect method.

Of course it depends on the size of mosaic you want to make. But what you should keep in mind when making a mosaic and finding patterns is you must keep it simple. Too much detail becomes very hard to reproduce with pieces of tiles, unless of course you are a veteran artist!

I for one am not, and need inspiration when it comes time to reproduce images in a mosaic. One method I would like to share with you is very simple. I discovered that it is very easy to find the perfect image in children’s coloring books. Most of these pictures are detailed enough to see its representation yet simple enough to easily reproduce in a mosaic
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Now how do you transfer these images to tiles?

Just follow this method to transform your images to patterns.

1. Once you have found that perfect image, outline the image lines with a large felt pen, these lines will represent your grout lines. If you want larger grout lines use a larger marker.

2. When you finished outlining the image, number each section and photocopy the image, you will need this photocopy later.

3. Then cut out all the pieces making sure to leave out the felt line. One piece of cut out paper represents one piece of tile. So here make as many or as few as you want, it is up to you.

4. Transfer the cut out piece onto a piece of ceramic or whatever material you are using.

5. Now gently cut each piece using your tile nippers.

6. Smooth out the edges with a rough sanding paper or a table top grinder.

7. Now using a fiberglass mesh with your photocopied image underneath, glue each piece of tile onto the mesh. Use a parchment style paper here between your photocopied image and your fiberglass mesh, otherwise your pieces will stick to the paper.

8. Once all your pieces are glued onto the mesh, your mosaic is ready to install!

This method has always given me excellent results, given your image is not too big. If you want your mosaic to be larger than 12 by 12 inches you can use this method but separate it into quadrants, it is easier this way when it comes time to transfer your mosaic to it permanent location.

The method using a fiberglass mesh is called the double direct method; however you can also use the indirect method for this. These methods and more are a topic by itself and will be covered in another article.

For the beginner working with mosaics you may choose a simple pattern that you find in a craft book or even on stained glass windows. The easiest piece to start with would be a simple round side table that you currently own or can pick up at a bargain outlet store or even a garage sale. You can purchase bags of mosaic stones in various colors and sizes at the local craft store which are great for beginners. Trace your idea on a piece of paper or cardboard cut to fit the size of the table so you can practice how the pieces will fit and look on the table. Apply the mastic to the tabletop and position your pieces, making sure the top of all the pieces are flat. Once the mastic is dry you can apply the grout in between the pieces. Grout can either be white or coordinate to the colors of your mosaic. Once dry you must apply a grout sealer to keep the furniture beautiful and for longer wear in outside weather.

Once you have practiced the art of mosaics you can begin to tackle bigger pieces of patio furniture such as lamps, large dining tables and even long benches and stools.

As the grout sets and hardens, you may notice grout shrinkage (i.e., the grout lines are like little valleys where the grout sinks and isn’t flush with the tesserae).  This used to happen to me a lot when I mixed the grout too runny.  However, since using thick, pasty grout, I’ve experienced much less grout shrinkage.  Don’t fret!  It’s an easy fix.  Simply re grout the mosaic.  It’s a lot easier the second time, especially when using thick, pasty grout.

If you’re not crazy about the idea of going through the whole grouting process again, here’s a little trick I use at the end of my normal grouting process.  After the last wiping cycle when the grout has set for about 45 minutes, go back and carefully inspect the entire mosaic for tiny pinholes, missed areas, depressed grout lines (i.e., where the grout is no longer flush with the tesserae), and other grout imperfections.

CAUTION: Cement (i.e., grout) is mildly caustic so don’t do this process with your bare hand.  Wear a glove for protection.

Use the leftover grout if it’s still workable.  If it’s not, then mix another small batch (two tablespoons of grout powder are usually enough).  Add just a bit of water at a time so you don’t end up with grout soup (i.e., the grout should be thick and pasty, not runny).  Wearing a glove, use your index finger to scoop up a dab of grout and rub it into the imperfect area.  Fill the little pinholes that invariably occur, and the little gaps that you missed, and the little depressions that seem to form as the grout sets.  Simply fill in those imperfections with your finger, wipe off the excess grout from your finger, and then use your clean finger or a dry paper towel to carefully wipe up the excess grout without disturbing the grout line.  Voila!  The imperfections are fixed.  Don’t accept those imperfections!  Go back and fill them in.

Do not use your bare hand to do this.  After a while, the skin will wear away and you’ll bleed all over your beautiful mosaic.  Yes, you will, indeed, bleed if you spread and wipe grout long enough with your bare finger.  It happened to me!  I could see the skin wearing away on the tip of my finger, but I was stubborn, thinking I’d be done soon.  A few wipes later, the last layer of skin was gone and it bled.  Now, I always wear a rubber glove to protect my skin.  I don’t use latex medical gloves because they’re relatively expensive (about $100 for a box of 50).  Instead, I use vinyl synthetic, powder-free exam gloves.  I can get a box of 100 at Walmart for about $30.  I only need one glove at a time because I only use my right hand when spreading and wiping the grout (i.e., I don’t need to glove my left hand).  That equates to about $0.30 per mosaic, which is well worth it to avoid the pain of wearing your skin down until it bleeds!